S.C. minibottle
tradition has staunch devotees, detractors
By JUSTIN
CHAPPELL Staff
Writer
With cigarette smoke floating through the pockets of darkness the
bar’s splotchy lighting doesn’t reach, lifelong Columbia resident
William Corbett outlined his dislike of minibottles in moments.
“You can look at it as being unique, saying you’re the only one
with minibottles, but it’s also xenophobia,” said Corbett, 40, a
warehouse supervisor and regular at this bar, Group Therapy on
Greene Street in Five Points.
“My view is that other states are doing it, and they’ve been
doing it, so what’s the problem?” he said.
On Tuesday, South Carolina voters could mark a change to the
minibottle law — namely, initiating a full-size bottle law — that
would have bars scurrying to revamp their insides and revise their
processes.
The wall behind the bar at Group Therapy displayed a couple of
wooden shelving units with fluorescent lights that illuminated six
levels of minibottles in a mix of deep browns, golds, greens, whites
and even a few pinks. The bar’s guts are built around
minibottles.
“Anywhere there’s liquor, they’re all set up for minibottles,”
said Chris Smith, 31, a Group Therapy bartender.
He learned his trade in the state where minibottles rule, so the
job of bartender would be a new world for him if minibottles are
voted out, he said.
The little bottle has become so interwoven in South Carolina’s
culture during the past 30 years it has withstood countless
challenges and catapulted the state to become the only one to still
use them. (Utah was second to last and dropped it in 1991.) The
issue also has made its way to Comedy Central’s “The Daily Show” and
has been featured in national publications such as the Washington
Post.
Drinkers want minibottles out to get a cheaper drink; the bar
industry wants to keep it small for inventory control and status
quo.
Karen Schoolmeester, 45, who owns Blue Martini and Rust in the
Vista, described her response should minibottles bite the dust:
“Cry.”
She said she’d have to redo Blue Martini’s shelving because it
isn’t built to support the weight of the larger bottles. Rust, her
newer bar, was made to accommodate full-size bottles because
minibottles were under fire when she developed that location.
Having more than 100 brands — a total of at least 1,200
minibottles — on hand at any time, she must have a system to keep
the drinks flowing.
She said she’d have to develop a way to inventory items (as of
now each bottle counts as one serving, whereas a large bottle would
hold an uncertain, varying number of servings) and find the time to
retrain bartenders, who would have to switch from pouring a
predetermined amount to estimating a 1-ounce shot.
“We don’t know what an ounce feels like,” she said.
While speed isn’t her bar’s greatest concern — martinis take a
while to prepare, anyway — the extra time to measure out shots is a
wait she doesn’t want to pass on to customers.
“It’s just another two or three seconds added on,” she said.
“That’s a big deal when you’re two to three deep in the bar.”
OUTSIDERS LOOKING IN
When Kimberly Strawn, 25, and Daniel Coppens, 26, moved to
Columbia from Florida, they had culture shock.
Upon tasting a drink made with a minibottle, Strawn’s response
was this: “Wow. I can’t believe they’re doing it. Nasty — it’s too
strong.”
She and Coppens, a telecommunications worker, were sitting in a
far corner of Rust.
“To people who live here,” Coppens said, “they don’t realize,
they don’t know the difference.”
One of Strawn’s favorite drinks is a White Russian, made with
milk, a shot of vodka and a shot of Kahlua (a drink made popular by
the movie “The Big Lebowski”).
Back home, this drink would cost her $6 at most because the
pricing would be per shot, which is 1 ounce in Florida. Here, she
said, the drink runs as high as $10 because it is made with
minibottles — each of which cost about $5.
Coppens took a drag from his cigar as Strawn broke down the
price.
“In my opinion,” he said, “you’re getting forced to drink more
liquor.”
They both laugh when recalling their first experience with
minibottles. The drink cost $15, and they had to split it three
ways.
“When I go home or to visit family in Minnesota,” Strawn said,
“they say, ‘Aren’t you the state that still uses minibottles?’ And
that’s how the state is known.”
SUPPORTING THE MINI
Not all drinkers are gung ho about ousting the bitty bottle.
At a packed house in the Liberty Tap Room and Grill in the Vista,
Steve McMillan, 28, of Columbia, said he is going to vote to keep
minibottles pouring.
Drinking a Seagram’s 7 and 7-Up, McMillan said it will be easier
for bartenders if the minibottles remain, and he likes his drink
poured at a consistent strength.
“You know what you’re getting when you order a drink,” he
said.
Across the room, Alvy Singer, 29, likewise voiced support for
minibottles.
“I’m very pro-Palmetto Hospitality,” the Columbia resident said
in reference to a state organization that supports minibottles. And
“you get drunker faster.”
Whether the bottle will get super-sized or continue as a modern
oddity is hard to gauge. Either way, Corbett will swing by Group
Therapy in Five Points after work.
“In good and bad times, people are going to drink,” he said. “It
just depends what the great people of South Carolina want.” |